Mushamna delivered real Svalbard conditions. The morning landing brought guests to a site with two trappers' huts — a modest structure from the early 1900s and a larger, better-appointed one from the late 1900s, complete with a sauna. After lunch, the Expedition Team led a guided hike across one of the few volcanic landscapes in Svalbard, passing one of the area's hot springs. The day closed with an unplanned reward: a course change to pass Moffen Island, where a walrus haul-out had gathered the animals we had not encountered earlier in the voyage.