A Zodiac cruise in Monacobreen, named after Prince Albert I of Monaco who explored these waters at the turn of the 20th century, had to be cancelled as fast ice extended some seven miles from the glacier front, making a Zodiac cruise impossible. We redirected our morning and made our way ashore at Texas Bar, a remote trapping station on the shores of Liefdefjord: a place whose curious name has no clear origin, lost somewhere in the history of those who first sheltered here. We explored the old hut and took in the wide, open fjord landscape that shaped the solitary winters of the trappers who once dwelled here. In the afternoon we landed at Mushamna, where a well-kept cabin (complete with a toilet and sauna!) spoke to a softer side of Arctic trapping life. The evening Discovery Session brought us together to examine what a single drop of Arctic water revealed about the microscopic life thriving in these seas.