A sleeping polar bear stirred and slowly rose before approaching the group of walrus hauled out along the shore at Torrellneset. Some of the walrus slipped quietly into the water, while others remained resting on the beach. We spent time observing this incredible scene until, with the hoped-for landing canceled, we shifted to scenic cruising, venturing as far as the impressive 8-kilometer-wide Etonbreen glacier. Later, we returned along Wahlenbergfjorden to land at Palanderbukta on Nordaustlandet, where we explored the stark and striking polar desert landscape.