Then, just after lunch – excitement rippled through the ship: a polar bear! Not just one, but a mother and her cub, strolling together along the coastline. From about a kilometre away, we watched in awe, the sun catching their fur as they moved with quiet power. Some of us watched from the deck, others curled up with a coffee inside, following their every step on the ship’s live camera feed.

Later, we made our way to Smeerenburg, running a little late – for very good reasons. There, we were greeted once more by walruses, this time from much closer, their presence unmistakable… and yes, their scent too.

It was a day of sunlight and unforgettable, beastly-good encounters.