The morning unfolded peacefully aboard MS Spitsbergen as the ship glides through the icy waters of Hornsund. Inside, warmth and anticipation fill the lounge as the AECO briefings begin. The Expedition Team outlines the rules of Arctic exploration, how to move carefully on land, respect wildlife, and tread lightly in this fragile environment.

By early afternoon, the weather begins to shift. As the ship nears Gnålodden, the wind picks up, sharp and cold, slicing down from the mountains and across the water. Bundled in layers, guests board the Zodiacs with hoods pulled tight and eyes squinting against the chill. The ride to shore is bumpy, the wind whipping through the narrow bay as seabirds wheel overhead, seemingly unbothered.

On land, the air is raw and biting. The old trapper’s hut stands stoic against the wind, a reminder of the harsh conditions faced by those who once lived here. Despite the cold, there’s a sense of exhilaration; the wildness of Gnålodden is palpable.